I have written several times about the United Kingdom, partly because I’m a dyed-in-the-wool Anglophile, and partly because my work takes me there regularly. However, this week’s post is about “the other Oxford” . . . Oxford, Mississippi, (which was named for the famed British institution).
One tends to conjure up a variety of clichés about the Deep South, but “Bohemian” would probably be pretty far down the list for most people. Yet Oxford manages to be that, probably because it is home to Ole Miss—the University of Mississippi to the uninitiated—which mashes up young people, arts, academia, and football-mad alumni.
Given the town’s pride in its literary bent, you might consider a visit to Rowan Oak, William Faulkner’s home. It’s just south of The Square, which is adjacent to Ole Miss. I’m not sure the place would make most towns’ lists of attractions, but in addition to its literary connection, it is a beautiful example of plantation architecture.
If you have just a couple of days to spend in Oxford, the good news is that—for a town with a population of 19,000—you will find a good selection of places to eat. In fact, you could satisfy your food needs without ever leaving the influence of James Beard Award winner John Currence.
• The Big Bad Breakfast certainly is the former adjective but not the latter. I asked about the bacon, which is superb, and the secret appears to be Tabasco sauce . . . but should we trust a chef who gives away his secrets?
• The newly opened Snackbar offers a nice bridge between breakfast or brunch and dinner, with a casual bistro feel.
• Finish the day at City Grocery, where you can drink and enjoy comfort food until they pour you back into your beret and send you on your way.
BE WARNED: Oxford has some strange blue laws, including one that makes it illegal to sell refrigerated beer. If you’re hankering for a cold one, or if the Oxford establishments are closed, it’s a fairly short drive to Waterford, where you can enjoy killer ribs at the Betty Davis Grocery—a dive and a half. (Unusually, Betty Davis has neither phone nor Web site, so just get to Old Oxford Road and follow the staggering masses to 3359.)
For a traditional weekend pastime, it’s hard to beat an Ole Miss clash. With four home games left, including tilts against perennial powers Tennessee and LSU, you should be able to make a game. The Grove is the on-campus green where tailgating begins Friday night for Saturday games and continues into Sunday. Despite the rowdiness, you are expected to show up wearing a collared shirt, tie, and sport coat, or end up feeling low-brow. Pip, pip dude!
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