Proving the old adage that “Time’s fun when you’re having flies,” it’s hard for me to believe that it has been a year since I penned the first Incidental Tourist. Looking back, it struck me that I haven’t written yet about a state I probably have visited as many as any other (Georgia) and a city that is one of my very favorites (Savannah). Here goes . . .
Founded in 1733 by British General James Oglethorpe, Savannah sits on the banks of its eponymous river. The place oozes history and charm and hospitality. (On the subject of hospitality and charm, Savannah recently was named “Most Mannerly City,” so I guess that proves the point.)
Considered “Georgia’s First City,” Savannah is probably best-known for its squares, if it’s known at all by the average Joe or Josephine. The city features 21 at last count, all of them lovely and beautifully maintained. My favorites include:
• Lafayette Square, which is much nicer than the one in New Orleans.
• Chippewa Square, because I really like the movie, Forrest Gump, and part of it was shot there.
• Monterey Square, because Mercer House, which features prominently in the highly enjoyable John Berendt book Midnight in the Garden of Good and Evil, overlooks the square.
If you go through the trouble of visiting Savannah (it is a little off the beaten track for us northerners, but only a 45-minute drive from Hilton Head Island, South Carolina), consider staying in one of the nicely restored inns in the city that takes its history very seriously. With more than 40 choices, it’s hard to recommend one place to stay, so I’ll cheat and give you two:
• The Gastonian Inn has won many awards and is located nearby to many of the city’s famous squares, as well as Forsyth Park.
• Kehoe House also is centrally located and nicely appointed, plus it offers the potential of a ghostly encounter. (The owners tell me they’re offering special deals if you call them directly.)
With such a large historic district, pretty much any place where you might meander will offer much to see. Arguably the two most famous streets not to miss are River Street and Jones Street. Both feature houses with the numerous architectural styles that set Savannah apart from other planned cities. (If you can do it without attracting the attention of the local gendarmes, try to peek into the gardens, which range from the merely inspiring to the embarrassingly eye-popping.)
Savannah’s City Market has survived for more than 250 years as a market, although its current incarnation is relatively recent. There’s usually something interesting going on, and you have some interesting shopping, eating, and drinking choices. is not necessarily imaginative and a little pricey, but the location is great, and the restaurant itself is gorgeous.
Factor’s Walk is a former cotton warehouse that now features unique boutiques and restaurants. It’s not for everyone, though, as a lot of kitsch is on offer there, but architectural gems abound, and visiting here gives you an excuse to see the waterfront.
Telfair Museum of Arts and Sciences, which is located in the Historic District, is one of the South’s first public art museums. Today, the Telfair encompasses the original Telfair family mansion, plus two other buildings. It features period rooms, decorative arts, paintings, and sculptures. Appropriately, given Savannahians’ obsession with neat and tidy outdoor spaces, the Telfair also features two outdoor sculpture terraces.
The First African Baptist Church, with roots that predate the Revolutionary War, is the oldest Black congregation in America (although there remains some debate about the church’s “oldest” claim). The building itself is worth a visit as a wonderful example of late 18th-century architecture, and the slave-made pews and ornaments tell a story by themselves.
In the end, stories are what make Savannah the destination it is today.
There are a number of great cities in Georgia,but Savannah is the most hospitable one. I should know , I am from the area,I keep a boat and a 1848 carriage house in the historical area area.
There is no bad time to visit Savannah. The local art school(SCAD) is really helping to make the city a world class location.
The Savannah Music festival is recognized as a world class event in the spring.
As you can see, I am sold on the area as are a lot of other transplanted Minnesotans!
As we say in Savannah ,"What can I get you to drink"
Posted by: Cornell Leverette Moore | May 28, 2009 at 01:42 PM